	HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN COMPOST BIN
"compost, because a rind is a terrible thing to waste"
Wooden Pallet Holding Unit - For Yard Waste Only You can build a holding unit, using wooden pallets, or recycled plastic or lumber. Used pallets are often available from manufacturers and landfills.

HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN COMPOST BIN

"compost, because a rind is a terrible thing to waste"

Wooden Pallet Holding Unit - For Yard Waste Only

You can build a holding unit, using wooden pallets, or recycled plastic or lumber. Used pallets are often available from manufacturers and landfills.

Building a Holding Unit Using Wooden Pallets

Nail or wire four pallets together to make a four-sided bin at least 3 feet x 3 feet x 3 feet.
A fifth pallet can be used as a base, to allow more air to get into the pile and to increase the stability of the bin.

Building a Holding Unit Using Lumber

Saw the 8-foot lengths of 2x4 lumber into four pieces, each 4 feet long, to be used as corner posts.
Choose a 3-foot-square site for your compost bin. Use the sledge hammer to pound the four posts into the ground 3 feet apart, at the corners of the square.
Saw each of the five 12-foot boards into four 3-foot pieces. Allowing five boards to a side and, starting at the bottom, nail the boards to the posts to make a four-sided container. Leave 2 inches between the boards to allow air to get into the pile.
If you wish to decrease your composting time, build a second holding unit so that the wastes in one can mature while you add wastes to the other.

Wire Mesh Holding Unit - For Yard Waste Only

A wire-mesh holding unit is inexpensive and easy to build out of either galvanized chicken wire or hardware cloth. (Non-galvanized chicken wire can also be used, but will not last as long.) Posts provide more stability for a chicken wire bin, but make the bin difficult to move. A wire-mesh bin made without posts is easy to lift, and provides access to the compost that is already "done" at the bottom of the pile while the compost at the top of the pile is still decomposing.

Building a Wire-Mesh Holding Unit Using Chicken Wire

Fold back 3 to 4 inches of wire at each end of the cut piece to provide a strong, clean edge that will not poke or snag, and that will be easy to latch.
Stand the wire in a circle and set it in place for the compost pile.
Cut the heavy wire into lengths for ties. Attach the ends of the chicken wire together with the wire ties, using pliers.
Space wood or metal posts around the inside of the chicken-wire circle. Holding the posts tightly against the wire, pound them firmly into the ground to provide support.

Building a Wire-Mesh Holding Unit Using Hardware Cloth

Trim the ends of the hardware cloth so that the wires are flush with a cross wire to prevent edges that could poke or scratch the hands. Lightly file each wire along the cut edge to ensure safe handling when opening and closing the bin.
Bend the hardware cloth into a circle, and stand it in place for the compost pile.
Cut the heavy wire into lengths for ties. Attach the ends of the hardware cloth together with the wire ties, using pliers.

Wooden Three-Bin Turning Unit - For Yard Waste Only

This turning unit is a permanent, sturdy structure, but it may be difficult to space the posts to the exact dimensions illustrated. Before cutting the removable slats that slide into the grooves at the front of each bin, cut one slat and check for proper fit in each bin.

Building a Wooden Three-Bin Turning Unit

On level ground, set the eight posts as shown below, using a post hole digger. (The posts are shown as darkened squares.) Embed each post 2 feet into the ground. Be sure all posts are plumb (perpendicular to the ground). The top of each post should be at the same distance above the ground (48 inches).
Nail (or screw) on the back and side slats and dividers (pre-drill all holes to prevent splitting). Use adhesive on all joints. The bottom slats should be at ground level. Leave 1-1/2 inch (horizontal) spaces between slats. Note that the ends of the dividers should come out to 1 inch behind the front of the front posts, as shown in that illustration.
Install the fronts and cleats, as shown, for one of the center divider posts.
After the front slats have been sized and cut, slide them into place between the fronts and cleats as shown in the completed bin illustration.
(Optional) Nail the top rail to each front post, as shown in the completed bin illustration. Do not use adhesive, and do not drive the nails in fully, as they will be removed to allow access to the slats. The top rail is suggested to prevent the front posts from moving laterally. Another option to discourage this is to use 4-nich x 4-inch x 7-foot posts and embed them one foot deeper.

Snow-Fence Holding Unit - For Yard Waste Only

A snow-fence holding unit is simple to make. It works best with four posts pounded into the ground for support.

Building a Snow-Fence Holding Unit

Choose a 3-foot-square site for your holding unit, and pound the four wooden or metal posts into the ground 3 feet apart, at the corners of the square.
Cut the heavy wire into lengths for ties. Attach the ends of the snow fence together in the same way, forming a 3-foot-square enclosure.
Attach the ends of the snow fence together in the same way, forming a 3-foot square enclosure.

Covered Garbage-Can Composter Suitable For Food & Yard Waste

A garbage-can composter is inexpensive, easy to build and approved for garden wastes.

Building a Garbage-Can Composter

Drill three rows of one-quarter-inch holes 4 to 6 inches apart all around the sides of the garbage can. The holes allow air movement and the drainage of excess moisture.
Place 2 to 3 inches of dry sawdust, straw or wood chips in the bottom of the can to absorb excess moisture and let the compost drain.

Please note: Never put food waste in an "open" pile.

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