| Process
of Screen Printing:
Step 1:
Produce a Set of Posterization Postives
I produced two enlarger-made posterization positives in the darkroom
using orthochromatic (lith film). I first made a test strip to
determine the correct exposure times that would "separate" the
tones into a workable set of two posterization positives. Using
the times I determined from my test strips, I then exposed a set
of posterization positives directly onto lith film and processed
then in lith developer.
Step 2:
Prepare a Photographic Stencil
I prepared a photographic stencil and screen for printing the
posterization positives. First, I applied a mesh degreaser to
the screen, and then rinsed the screen after a few minutes. Then,
I adhered a piece of capillary direct stencil material to the
screen. After the stencil dried in a light tight area, I carefully
peeled the clear film base off the capillary direct stencil. Next,
I exposed the clear positives onto the film for four minutes using
the Nu-Arc-flip-top platemaker. Then I lightly scrubbed the film
to wash out the image areas.
Step 3:
Screen Print a 2-Color Job in Tight Register
First, I masked the screen using butcher paper and masking tape.
Then I mounted the frame in hinges on the "backboard". I adhered
2 registration tabs to the backboard to locate where to set my
paper. Then, I printed my first color, which was a dark brown
to 10 sheets of Bristol Board. I changed my color to a lighter
brown and printed ten additional sheets. To apply the black color,
I had to prepare another mask and adhere more registration tabs
around my second image area and then printed the black onto the
10 sheets of dark brown and ten sheets of lighter brown.
Masked Screen with Ink
Step 4:
Removing Capillary Direct Stencil (Screen Reclaiming)
To remove the stencil, I used CPS Stencil Remover and let it sit
for a few minutes. Rinsing with hot water, I scrubbed lightly
back and forth until the stencil was removed and no more clogs
where apparent.
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